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Clearing Up Label Confusion
 By Myra Michelle Eby
Reading labels can be challenging. At MyChelle, we are proud to be compliant with the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) process. Since being INCI compliant, some customers have questioned why there are such long, unpronounceable ingredient names on our labels. For those of us who are meticulous about buying natural, nontoxic products, this question is completely valid. In fact, some of those difficult-to-pronounce ingredients even made some of us do a double take. The key to being nontoxic, however, is not the size of the word it’s the source of the ingredient.
Understanding INCI
MyChelle Dermaceuticals has chosen to participate in the INCI process because we feel it is in the best interest of the consumer. It's also the way of the future.
Today, manufacturers of skin care products are managed under the archaic regulations of the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act initiated back in the 1930s. Some toxic ingredients in body care products, such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate found in many shampoos, toothpastes, lotions, and creams, are "grandfathered" into the Act even though they can be harmful to our health. In fact, many of the toxic ingredients used here in the United States are actually banned in Europe.
The INCI system monitors ingredients in skin care products by requiring full disclosure of all ingredients in a consistent format. Identification of the ingredients must include the proper Latin name. INCI only requires the Latin name be listed and it is not required to list the common name or source of the ingredient. To be sure our customers know the ingredients in our products are nontoxic and come from natural sources, MyChelle Dermaceuticals goes one step further by featuring the common name or source in parenthesis. For example, Sodium Decylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate is actually a natural sugar compound. We have included this natural sugar compound in our Cranberry Cleanser because it is a soothing, smoothing, mild cleanser. For more examples, refer to the chart at the end of this article.
Using the Latin name is significant because it is the safest way to list herbs and natural substances. That's why Latin names are always used in medicine. Because there are different types of species within the same genus of plant, the full Latin name ensures we are getting exactly the right plant. Those long Latin names are actually for your safety.
To completely comply with INCI, in addition to listing the ingredients with the proper Latin name, we must also feature the different compounds of an herb or nutrient. For example, on some of our labels, you will see Willow Bark featured in parenthesis associated with different ingredients. That's because Willow Bark is a complex herb with many constituents. Each active constituent of Willow Bark must be listed, rather than simply listing Willow Bark. This provides optimum full disclosure to consumers. INCI compliance takes more time and research but we feel it is worth it to have our customers fully aware of what they are purchasing.
Label Reading Tips
We should all get into the habit of reading product labels carefully—especially our skin care products. Labels can be intimidating. Here are two simple tips to follow when reading the label of a skin care product:
- Don't panic if you see a long, unpronounceable word. What's in the parenthesis following that word is more significant. Remember, even intimidating words can come from a natural, nontoxic source.
- If the common name or source of the ingredient is not listed in parenthesis, contact the manufacturer for more information. You have a right to know exactly what every ingredient is and where it comes from before you buy it.
Transitioning to full INCI compliance has been a work in progress for us. If you have a MyChelle product with an ingredient that does not list the source or common names in parenthesis, please contact our technical support team at ingredients@mychelle.com. They will be happy to let you know what that ingredient is and where it comes from.
Importance of INCI
 Being the leader in bioactive ingredients that are nontoxic as well as effective means we have to pay meticulous attention to all of our skin care product formulations. By adhering to the INCI label process, we are aligning ourselves with a higher standard of information. We feel it is important to give our customers as much information as possible. We do this by disclosing the ingredients in our products in the proper INCI format. When it comes to products you place on your skin, we feel the more information, the better.
Our hope is that all U.S. skin care manufacturers will eventually fully disclose what's in their products by listing the Latin and common name/source for all of the ingredients. A comprehensive label helps consumers make informed buying decisions.
The Future is Here
At MyChelle Dermaceuticals we are committed to never using toxic chemical preservatives, fragrances, fragrance maskers, coloring agents, and stabilizers found in many other skin care products. We are proud to take this commitment one step further by adhering to the INCI label process. We believe our customers deserve full disclosure and as much information as possible. The MyChelle ingredient list is where you will find the information you need to make a safe choice for you and your family.
INCI Ingredient Examples
Following is a list of ingredients listed in their INCI format, as well as the bioactive effect of that ingredient. If the ingredient in parenthesis is capitalized, it is the common name and if it is not capitalized, it is the source.
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INCI PROPER NAME
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SOURCE/COMMON NAME
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WHY INCLUDED
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| Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Amaranth Protein
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(Amaranth)
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Natural, Gentle Deep Cleansing Peptide that Nourishes the Skin
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| Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
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(Pomegranate extract)
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Gentle Enzyme Exfoliant
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| Vaccinium Macrocarpon
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(Cranberry Fruit Juice)
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Skin Conditioning Agent
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| Melaleuca Alternifolia
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(Tea Tree Leaf Oil)
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Highly Antiseptic, Natural Preservative, Anti-Bacterial, Antioxidant, and Reduces Infection
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| Lonicera Caprifolium
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(Honeysuckle Flower Extract)
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Stimulates the Removal of Toxins and Waste Materials, Anti-Viral
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| Sodium Decylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate
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(sugar compound)
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Soothing, Smoothing Mild Cleanser
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| Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
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(Coconut Oil)
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Cleansing and Foaming Agent
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| Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
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(Coconut Oil)
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Helps Cleanse, Protect, and Repair Skin
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| Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate
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(sugar compound)
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A Gentle Cleanser
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| Phytic Acid
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(plant grains and seeds)
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Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory
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| Cetearyl Olivate
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(olive oil)
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Softens and Smooths Skin
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